"The 1944 Italy I remembered brown and gray and lifeless. Every city,
every small town reeked. No young men in the towns and no cattle in the
fields. The war had taken the men and the Germans had taken the cattle.
That was the Italy I expected to find when I came back. I hate to admit
it, but that was the Italy I wanted to find. I fell in love with a sad
land, and I wanted it sad one more time." (Richard Hugo)